Design and Development of Hand Painted Apparels Using Ecofriendly Dyes

“There is no better designer than nature.”- Alexander McQueen.

The growing concerns about environmental issues are playing an increasingly important role in the textile industry. The use of eco-friendly dyes, as one of the means to create hand painted silks to protect the environment. The silk craft is a very noble art, exalts the rich and helps the poor. The technique of decorating cloth with a free hand application of color or using a tool which does not of itself produce a repeat image has been practiced mainly in the east. “Painted silks” evoke all the mystery and magic of the orient or the eastern cultures. As a Garment or fabrics, silk drapes beautifully, and the weaves and weights of the different texture will affect the flow and line of each piece. The depth of dyes brings out fabrics luster, and with its drape flowing with sensors, opines Diane Tuckman (1992).

The study aims at Hand painting silks with eco-friendly dyes with different solvents/buffers with limitless variety of exciting designs. The techniques used are easy, simple and can be finished at home which do not cause harm to the environment and ecology.

Hand paintings express a rarer fineness in which the forms radiate a warm and gentleness through the techniques used. The colors are exuberant and bright and speak volumes for the depth, the fine skill and passion which reflect ethereal beauty. The richness of the ancient art, showcased through the contemporary designs developed in this study brings in the freshness of intricate designs, which is seen through art practiced on silk and the colours used.

A preliminary pilot study was conducted to study the trends, fabrics and design features available in the market. Based on the study crepe silk and silk chiffon fabrics were selected for hand painting using different techniques. The process and designs are designed to rejuvenate the user’s persona as well as benefits by providing simpler methods. The finished samples were evaluated for mechanical properties, subjective assessment, Eco parameters of the selected dyes Spectrophotometric assessment to find out the change in color properties.

The seven techniques of Hand painted fabrics were used for designing and development of Crepe silk and silk chiffon Kurtis, Sarees, blouses and Accessories. A collection of 7 techniques of hand painted Kurti’s, sarees with blouses and accessories both in crepe silk and silk chiffons were designed keeping fit, functionality ,comfort factors and trend in mind. The apparels were designed and constructed using pattern making and garment construction techniques. The acceptance study was conducted for 50 respondents from textile and non- textile background respectively. The date was analyzed using various statistical tools and methods.

The Major Findings of the Research Were As Follows

From the pilot study it was evident that the hand painted Kurtis, Sarees were not available over the market the ones that were available were the ones which were dyed, printed or woven. There was much scope for hand painting with eco friendly dyes with contemporary designs.

The geometrical properties of the greige and the painted silk fabrics were compared and it was clear that the weight of the hand painted samples had reduced after painting as the fabric was subjected to washing process for the removal of residual gum and other impurities present in the greige fabric. The thickness of the painted silk crepe remained unchanged, where as the silk chiffon had reduced minimally. The overall geometrical properties of the painted samples have bought the closeness and consolidation of the fabric set.

The eco parameters of the selected dyes were tested to determine the banned amines present in the dyes. The result showed that the dyes used in the painted samples did not contain any of the banned amines as per the German Regulation. Hence the selected dyes were found to be 100% eco friendly.

Assessment on the quality aspects of painted fabrics were carried out to check the dimensional change for silk chiffon and silk crepe before and after painting. Both chiffon and crepe fabrics reported good improvement in dimensional stability after painting and better ability to withstand wear and tear which is essential for apparels.

The degree of pilling for both unpainted and painted silk chiffon and crepe silk fabrics the samples showed the same pilling rating of 5 (5-No change) therefore the painting treatment has not affected this property of the fabric.

The drapability of the painted samples displayed considerable drapability within the range of + 0.5 in comparison with the unpainted fabrics in case of both silk chiffon and crepe silk fabric. Hence both silk chiffon and crepe silk fabrics reported good drapability after painting which is essential for apparels.

Spectrophotometric assessment of painted fabrics for colour measurement and colour coordinates were carried out at the wavelength of 400nm to 700nm. Using the k/s value shade cards were developed for painting.  The data was taken to know the strength of the colors used and the analysis was not done on the finished sample since the shade created by the mixture of green chemicals and the colors would vary throughout the sample giving varied effects on crepe silk and silk chiffon.

The colour fastness properties for washing, rubbing dry and wet, sunlight and perspiration was carried out it was evident that both silk chiffon and crepe silk samples painted using different techniques showed good to excellent colour fastness properties.

The subjective assessment showed that crepe silk and silk chiffon fabrics after painting showed significant improvement in smoothness, softness and lower stiffness when compared to unpainted crepe silk and silk chiffon fabrics there by making it suitable for designing and development of hand painted apparels.

The body measurements for young women in the age group of 18-30 years were standardized and the study showed that apart from the bust and waist measurements which were less than the standards, the rest of the measurements were almost similar. For the Kurti the circumference measurement, bust, wait and hip measurement were the main focus and the chart showed that all the measurements were in the standard range for petite size. These measurements were used to design and develop the Kurti’s and Saree blouses.

The acceptance study very clearly depicted that both textile and non-textile respondents readily accepted and appreciated the effort taken to design apparels using different hand painting techniques with eco-friendly dyes. Similar, results were absorbed through statistical analysis like T-test, Co-relation and Fredmanns test. These hand painting techniques enhanced the surface value of crepe silk and silk chiffons there by making it a diverse art, unique and a good entrepreneurial venture with good job opportunities for women to work from home to earn their livelihood.

Thus it was clear from the study that hand painted crepe silk and silk chiffon with different techniques using eco –friendly dyes was well accepted by consumers. The consumers felt that it was a very unique, innovative and novel product, thereby making it ideal for apparels which can be marketed under the brand name Eco moiré, simply beautiful. Green stands for growth, harmony and peaceful reassurance.